The Blue Holicer is a medium sized rabbit with a stocky, upright cylindrical body, thickly furred ears, ultra dense medium steel blue fur, and a max weight of 7-1/4 lbs. The breed was developed in the Czech Republic in the 1950 by a breeder named Imrich Vanek. The breed was recognized by the Central Committee of the Slovak Small Breeders’ Association in 1975 and then by the Club of Rabbit Breeders of the Slovak Breeds and Rex in 1993. The breed has steadily gained popularity and began to thrive. The Blue Holicer captured the interest of Canadian breeder Frank Nutar who applied to have the breed recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association. Through his diligent work he succeeded in 2023 and the Blue Holicer became ARBA’s 52nd Breed.
Don Havlicek Imported the Czech Frosty rabbit from Czech Republic in 2013. This wonderful loving breed stole the hearts of many. The Czech Frosty also called the Schwarzgrannen or Czech Black-Haired, are a medium sized rabbit that originated in the Czech Republic early 1950’s. It was accepted by the German standard in 1991 and then accepted in the European standard in 1995. In 2022 it was accepted into the American Rabbit Breeders Association. It has become the second cylindrical breed and the first upright cylindrical breed recognized by ARBA. The Czech Frosty is a medium size rabbit that is Frosty (also called Ermine or Frosted Pearl) in color. The color is genetically the same as Chinchilla except they are ee, instead of E_. The breed averages around 7.5lbs and are thick enough to be dual purpose for both show and meat. The breed averages 4-8 kits per litter.
As breeders and judges we may not see many, or any, commercial classes at all-breed sanctioned shows throughout most of the year. However, for 2-3 months out of the year as we enter the “Fair Season” these are generally the largest classes we encounter at county and state fairs. Considering we may encounter very few the remaining 9-10 months of the year; how does one prepare for this 2-3 month season where you may find 40 meat pens at a show?
Exhibiting a pen of rabbits for market class competition at the county fair can be a fun, rewarding, educational, and even profitable project with the right care, feeding, and management. Whether this is your first time as a rabbit owner or not, here are some important points to help keep your market fryers on a track to success!
Make a Timeline
Whether you are breeding your own meat pen or buying from a breeder, the first step is to find out where and when you intend to show. Meat pen and single fryer entries must conform to a certain age (under 70 days) and weight (3 lb 8 oz to 5 lb 8 oz). This means it’s important to know the show dates of your intended show (i.g. state, county, local fair…). Carefully review the ownership rules within the fair catalog. Many fairs have a strict ownership rule of 30 days before the rabbits arrive (or in some cases, judging date). Once you know the important dates, you can create a timeline to help you maximize your success while abiding by fair and ARBA rules and standards. If the maximum age for market fryers is 70 days, the combination of gestation and potential ownership days can leave you with a very small and precise window on your timeline.
Deciding on a Breed
Fryers are young market rabbits (under 70 days) which comprise a meat pen or single fryer class. While a single fryer entry is just one rabbit, a meat pen consists of three rabbits of the same breed and variety (not sex). Commercial breeds such as Californians and New Zealands are tried and true choices due to their long history and purpose as fast-growing meat rabbits with excellent meat to bone ratio. However, any breed is allowed to compete in these classes so long as they meet minimum standards in weight, age, and are of the same breed and variety.
Finding Your Market Fryers
Once you have selected a breed, decide whether you want to raise your own market fryers or purchase them from a breeder. As stated earlier, consult your fair’s catalog and rules to see possible restrictions on birth and ownership. While many fairs allow exhibitors to purchase their market fryers, some require the market rabbits to be bred-by and born on the exhibitor’s property. If exhibitors are allowed to purchase from a breeder, check national breed club websites to find breeders near you, wwww.arb.net/affiliated-clubs/
Regardless, a meat pen consists of three rabbits; so, whether you’re purchasing from a breeder or breeding your own, have extra fryers as back-ups should problems arise.
Taking Home Your Market Fryers
If you’re purchasing from a breeder, while adhering to a fair’s ownership rule of 30 days, you are frankly buying baby rabbits who may be freshly weaned from a doe. Your care begins from the very moment you purchase your fryers. Their growth and show potential quickly hinge on your attention to details and their well-being. Maintaining an environment that is as close to what they are accustomed to will decrease stress and put them on a strong path. When you pick up your young fryers from the breeder, come prepared with a transport cage of adequate size and ventilation. Add a handful of timothy hay and offer fresh, cool water too. A cardboard box without bedding, on the contrary, will be a slippery, frightening ride with low airflow. When your fryers make it to your home, they are more likely to drink, eat, and adjust faster if they are not stressed. Fryers that adjust smoothly to their environment will grow the best for you. Remember your timeline. Every day matters, and a day or two without eating due to stress will mean time without growth.
Record Keeping
An accurate record of your fryer’s growth and weight gains must be kept if you wish to succeed with your project. From the moment the fryers are brought home, or weaned, bi-weekly weighing must begin. As the rabbit grows and the competition nears, daily weighing and adjustments are important to note. Keep in mind that they often gain weight at the rate of 1.5-2.0 oz per day during the final weeks! Weigh the fryers around the same time each day, preferably during the estimated time they will be shown. Remember that if they still have food in their gut the weight will reflect that as well.
Temperature
Rabbits are covered in a soft, dense coat of fur that keeps them protected in the wild from the cold and wet. However, if you live in a warm environment, your rabbit is nearly living in a permanent winter coat. Even if you’re chilly on a winter morning, there’s a good chance your rabbit is perfectly comfortable. You can minimize stress by making sure your rabbits never get hotter than 80 degrees. Keep your rabbits out of direct sunlight and offer good airflow.
Rabbits living in a cage means they are sitting above their waste. Airflow minimizes odor and promotes a cooler temperature.
Housing
Fryers do best when given their own cage, own water, and own food. In other words, when the chances to compete with other rabbits is minimized, the accessibility to crucial ingredients increases and so, in turn, does growth. With that said, if you are purchasing a group of young fryers, consider keeping 4 to 6 together for the first few days. When purchasing from a breeder, there’s a good chance your fryers are littermates and accustomed to each other (smell and habits). Being with littermates for the first few days in your new environment will be effective in minimizing their stress levels, while effectively increasing the likelihood of their growth and success.
Wire mesh cages are the best for the rabbits because they allow airflow and ventilation, as well as healthy separation from manure and urine. Solid cages, especially those made of wood, do not promote airflow, can become hot, and harbor bacteria. Metal, on the contrary, can easily be sanitized with bleach; wood cannot. After the first week, separate the rabbits into their own individual cages. An appropriate size cage for each rabbit is 18” x 24” x 14” (L x W x H).
Placement of the cage is also very important. The cage needs to be out of direct sunlight and out of the rain and wind. An ideal location has good airflow, cool temperatures, and quiet surroundings (especially from dogs and loud noises). Placing the cages in the house or garage can promote safety, vigilance and constant temperature, but can increase stress from people and pets (i.g. supposed predators).
Feeding Your Market Fryers
While every breeder has his or her own feeding techniques, tips, and “do’s and do-not’s”, one thing breeders will all agree on is that consistent, quality nutrition will yield in better outcomes compared to rabbits who are fed low quality ingredients on an erratic schedule. Whenever possible, feed the exact feed (brand and blend) that your original breeder fed. If you don’t have access to this feed where you live, ask your breeder for a couple pounds of feed for you to mix with your own feed for the first few days. Just as important as keeping an environment that is similar to where the fryers were raised, so too is offering a familiar feed.
Hay
As you can see, reducing stress is a familiar objective. Stress will prevent your young fryers from normal and essential functions such as drinking, eating, and consequently growth. Stress also has adverse effects on the health of rabbit’s gastrointenstinal tract. Believe it or not, the pH in a rabbit’s gut will change under times of stress. An imbalance of acidity will make an environment more conducive to harmful bacteria. At times of stress, coccidia can overtake the gut and quickly lead to diarrhea, dehydration and death. A buildup within the gut during this time can exponentially increase the ideal environment for this bacteria. Offering a daily, low protein roughage, such as timothy hay, will help to promote movement within the gut, and the removal of the environment which harbors the harmful bacteria. Hay promotes gut movement. Gut movement promotes a healthy, growing rabbit.
Water
Water is critical to the health and growth of all living things. Water must contain three key components: abundant, cool, and clean. Water must always be available. If you offer a water bottle and the rabbits don’t drink from it, you must immediately offer a water dish. At least 32 oz of water should be available to each rabbit at all times. Just like you would not want to drink warm or dirty water, the same is true for your rabbits. If the water is cool and clean, they will drink it. Rabbits that drink are rabbits that will eat.
Handling
Rabbits are most comfortable around other rabbits because rabbits are not predators. At home, while it’s a good idea to feel your rabbits a few times per week to make sure that they do not feel thin, bloated, and that they are growing, it’s best not to over handle them. The more they are scared, the more stressed they become, and consequently the less they will eat and grow correctly. Your rabbits will be happiest and most comfortable without a lot of handling.
While they are cute, it is best to consider them as livestock instead of house pets.
Diarrhea
The fragility of young rabbits is a very real feat to overcome in market rabbit projects. Diarrhea means the ultimate loss of excessive amounts of water. Offering low-protein hay daily (as previously mentioned) will minimize diarrhea. You may also consider sprinkling raw, uncooked, oats on top of the feed to entice eating, add fiber, and minimize diarrhea. Giving an oral probiotic to help replenish the gut with “good bacteria” after the excessive losses from diarrhea will also prove effective.
Conditioning & Grooming
In the weeks leading up to the competition you will want to ensure that your fryers are in prime condition. The flesh must be firm and solid with no flabbiness, looseness of flesh or softness. Be sure the bellies are not potty or distended. The pelt must be tight and the fur must be in prime condition, spotless and display evidence of consistent care.
Nutrition is key at this time. Measure each ration carefully (generally 8 oz/day) and observe that the rabbits are consuming the entire measure. Weigh the animals to ensure that they are developing correctly. If the animal is down a few ounces you’re in a better position to take immediate action to discern the problem and correct it before it becomes serious. Check the following: Is the water clean and plentiful. Has the carefully measured feed been consumed Is there evidence of evidence of diarrhea in the cage or on the rabbit? Is the rabbit’s belly displaying signs of pottiness, or is there a general air of weakness or listlessness in the rabbit? Immediate action can stop a small problem from becoming a bigger one.
Grooming simply consists of dampening one’s hands with water and running it along the body of the rabbit. Water remains the single best ingredient for this job. It will clean the fur without removing the natural oils in the coat. Gently work the fur to remove any dead hair, dust and dander. Grooming also allows one the opportunity to perform a health check – Teeth for alignment, vent for cleanliness, eyes for brightness, belly for firmness, body for smoothness. Remember, stains are harder to get out than to keep out. Cages must be kept sparkling clean at all times. If you do have a stain in the coat remove it asap. The longer it sets the harder it will be. Resist using a product with too many chemicals as it will strip the coat.
Meat Pen Selection
As the competition draws near, you will want to give thought to your selection. Your market meat pen should be as uniform as possible in all aspects: Weight, size, condition, appearance, fur and fleshing. You are looking for three rabbits that are exactly identical. Remember that if even ONE rabbit in your meat pen is over or underweight, the entire entry will be disqualified!
In addition, all rabbits must be free of general disqualifications per the ARBA Standard of Perfection. This means that if one rabbit has bad teeth or a broken toe, the entire entry will be disqualified. Check your entry carefully.
Single Fryer, Roaster, Stewers
When selecting your entry of single fryers, roasters or stewers you are looking for the rabbit that most closely conforms to the required weight of that category. Understanding that meat type is key you will select the rabbit that is full, solidly fleshed and round; an animal that will butcher out with the maximum amount of meat with minimum offal. Well-developed shoulders are indicative of meat carrying properties, as are a wide and deep loin and thick hindquarters. Once you have selected the animals that best meet those requirements, you will then select for firmness of flesh, superiority of condition, and quality of fur. Once you have selected your entry, tattoo them and begin the final weeks of conditioning.
The Final Weeks
While the weeks before the big show can be exciting, resist the urge to over handle your entry. Stress will quickly cause your entry to lose condition. Weigh them and handle them minimally, but watch them carefully to ensure they have everything they need.
Show Day
Stay organized. Have your equipment ready the day prior to leaving. Load your rabbits right before you leave to minimize travel stress. Putting a layer of thick foam padding where the rabbit carrier will sit will act as a cushion to absorb the shock of the road. Each big bump is flesh condition lost. Be sure the air in the vehicle is circulating, and they are adequately cooled and out of direct sunlight during travel. At the show groom/check your rabbits and then put them in an area with the least amount of excitement and traffic possible. If you are required to coop them, then make sure they are as comfortable as possible. Bring your own food and water as some rabbits are finicky about strange tastes and you do not want to do anything to cause them to go off feed. Now is not the time to experiment with a new conditioner, feed or water product.
Groom your entry before you take them before the judge, place them in the coop and then stand back. Market shows are exciting and a wonderful learning opportunity. Pay attention to the judge and what he or she is saying, but save any questions for the conclusion of judging when it is appropriate to talk.
Commercial shows are growing with each passing year. They have become competitive and the premiums can be high. It can be exciting to be awarded the grand champion meat pen, fryer, roaster or stewer. Almost as exciting is the chance to learn tips from top exhibitors, from seasoned judges, and to build a plan of success for the following year. Winning market rabbit projects are never an accident. They are a result of hard work, perseverance, consistency, sacrifice, and meticulous care.
Remember that sometimes you will win and sometimes you will learn. Regardless, of the outcome, you must always remember to have a winning attitude. Good sportsmanship is the mark of a good showman. Shake the hand of the judge, and congratulate the winner. If that person happens to be you, be gracious and humble in your victory.
If you are a breeder or grower who purchases live rabbits, AGM recommends you review your biosecurity measures as a precaution and take steps to address potential gaps. The following actions will significantly reduce the chance of RHDV2 or other contagious diseases affecting rabbits:
• Do not allow pet, feral, or wild rabbits to have contact with your rabbits or gain entry to the facility or home. If you own domestic rabbits, do not release them into the wild. • Do not allow visitors in rabbitries or let them handle pet rabbits without protective clothing (including coveralls, shoe covers, hair covering, and gloves). • Always wash hands with warm soapy water before entering your rabbit area, after removing protective clothing and before leaving the rabbit area. • Do not introduce new rabbits from unknown or untrusted sources. Do not add rabbits to your rabbitry from animal shelters or other types of rescue operations. • If you bring outside rabbits into your facility or home, keep them separated from your existing rabbits. Use separate equipment for newly acquired or sick rabbits to avoid spreading disease. • Sanitize all equipment and cages moved on or off premises before they are returned to the rabbitry. We recommend disinfecting with 10% bleach or 10% sodium hydroxide mixed with water. • Establish a working relationship with a veterinarian to review biosecurity practices for identification and closure of possible gaps.
Rabbit owners who have questions about this disease or suspect RHDV2, should contact their veterinarians.
Flying with Rabbits and CaviesRandy Hall2019-09-05T00:40:54-04:00
With the ARBA Convention on the horizon and Nationals shows taking place throughout the US in the spring driving to these shows can be time consuming and unfeasible, so some of us turn to air travel to get us and our rabbits and cavies there.
ARBA Recommendations for the Care of Rabbits and CaviesRandy Hall2019-07-11T23:25:18-04:00
This document is being created in order to provide guidance to all individuals who care for rabbits and cavies for the purposes of pets, show animals, commercial uses (i.e. food, fiber, and exhibition) and laboratory uses. This document is also meant to serve as a guide for individuals who serve in animal welfare and regulatory organizations. These recommendations provide a general guidance on the best practices in caring for rabbits and cavies. These recommendations are meant to work in conjunction with the Animal Welfare Act (AWA) giving more concrete definition to the AWA and are not meant to supersede the AWA for those who are bound to follow the AWA for regulatory compliance.
Section 1: Housing for Rabbits and Cavies
Cage Size
Rabbits and cavies need to be provided a cage of adequate size to accommodate species and breed specific behavior. Table 1-A provides minimum space requirements for one rabbit based upon the weight of the animal. Available cage space is calculated by multiplying the cage width by length and subtracting the space occupied by the feed and water dishes located on the floor of the cage. Feeders and waters fixed to the side of the cage, not coming in contact with the floor of the cage, need not be subtracted from available cage space.
Table 1-B lists the required minimum cage size according to the AWA by breeds based upon the breed’s maximum senior weight (animal at mature size) Individual animals may be housed in smaller cages based upon their weight. Table 1-C describes the minimum floor space per rabbit is met as required by individually weaned rabbits and the rabbits are compatible; however group housing is not ideal.
Cavies are to be housed in cages with the following minimum requirements as seen in Table 1-D based upon the animal’s weight. Cavies are frequently group housed so the minimums described would be for each individual animal within an enclosure.
Cage Construction and Environment
Cages are to be constructed in a manner which takes into account species and breed specific behaviors and needs, protect the animal from harm by predators, and protect the animal from injury. Any sharp edges are either to be dulled or covered with a material, such as a plastic guard, to prevent injury to the animal and owner. Cage components need to be replaced as they wear out to prevent safety hazards to the animal and its owner. Cages with either solid floors or a resting board, for those enclosures with wired bottoms, may need to be provided for those animals prone to sore hocks, particularly Belgian Hares, Flemish Giants and Rex based on the condition of the animal’s foot pads. Wire bottom cages are not recommended for cavies unless the floor is constructed in a manner that prevents the animal’s leg from becoming stuck, such as ½” by ½” wire.
It is strongly recommended that those breeds marked with an asterisk in Table 1-B be housed in cages with extra floor space and height due to the breed specific behaviors in these breeds of wanting to move about more than other breeds. If larger cages are unable to be accommodated for these breeds for whatever reason, it is recommended that an exercise program be incorporated into the weekly care regiment for these animals.
Animals who demonstrate stereotypic behavior, such as pacing back and forth; moving of feed and water dishes for no apparent reason; constant chewing at water bottles; pulling at wire; or any other repetitive behavior performed out of habit, are recommended to be given environmental enrichment. Toys such as golf balls or metal bells hanging in the cage encourage activity for those animals that require extra stimulation. PVC pipe is an excellent environmental enrichment device placed in cavy enclosures to help the animals with their natural burrowing instincts.
Cage Bedding
Typically, bedding is not used in wire bottom cages, but on some occasions, particularly on occasions of sudden extreme cold, either straw or hay may be used. Cages with solid bottoms will use wood shavings, wood chips, straw, etc. as contact bedding to help absorb urine within the enclosure. The size and type of wood shaving/chip needs to be taken into consideration in order to maintain healthy animals. Cedar chips should be avoided as it is known to cause upper respiratory issues in both cavies and rabbits.
Cage Cleaning and Sanitation
Cages need to be kept in a clean and sanitary condition in order to promote a healthy living environment for the animals. Bedding needs to be changes as often as necessary to prevent over soiling and wetness. For animals with contact bedding (bedding in which they come into direct contact), the bedding will typically need to be changed on a weekly basis at
minimum. Wire bottom floors need to be cleaned to remove any buildup of hair and fecal deposits. Trays are to be scraped, emptied, or flushed frequently to prevent buildup of waste. At no time should waste build up above the edges of the drop pan. For cages where waste drops to the ground, waste needs to be cleaned as often as necessary to prevent buildup of odor and moisture.
All cages need to be washed and sanitized with an appropriate sanitizing agent on a regular basis in or to kill bacteria, mold and viruses. Long haired breeds such as any Angora, American Fuzzy Lop and the Jersey Wooly are prone to have wool collect on the sides and bottoms of cages. Periodic power washing or torching the wool off the wire needs to occur to prevent wool from blocking waste from dropping through the wire. Calcium buildup from urine is normal and is to be expected to occur particularly on the bottoms of pans. Washing pans will help to slow this process. Periodic power washing will help to remove excess calcium scaling on pans, cages and cage supports. Commercially made products can be purchased that will help to eliminate calcium buildup on cage equipment.
Feed and Bedding Storage
Feed and bedding is to be stored in such a manner that it does not attract vermin such as mice and rats. Ideally open feed is stored in enclosed containers. Unopened feed bags need to be stored off the ground and away from walls. Bedding needs to be stored off the ground and away from walls.
Environmental Conditions
Environmental conditions (temperature, ventilation, and light) are important to maintaining healthy rabbits and cavies. The ideal environmental temperature range for a rabbit is 55˚ to 70˚ F. Rabbits can adapt to temperatures outside of this range with appropriate environmental conditioning. Many rabbitries are not climate controlled so animals may be subjected to environmental extremes. For these rabbitries, animals must be acclimated to the changes in temperatures. Rabbits do not do well when temperatures exceed 85˚F. Fans, misters, and frozen water bottles in cages are examples of methods to help animals cope with high temperatures. Ventilation during high temperatures is essential to help air quality; ventilation must be provided either by natural airflow and/or artificial airflow with the use of fans or air conditioners. Rabbits that are acclimated to cooler temperatures do quite well without the aid of warming agents so as heaters. Rabbits are quite hearty in cases of extreme cold, provided they have been acclimated to such temperatures. During cold weather months, animals may require more feed as more energy is used in cold temperatures. Rabbits need to be sheltered from the elements of direct sunlight, rain, snow, wind, etc. Natural outdoor lighting and light cycles are ideal environmental conditions. In cases where natural sunlight is not available artificial lights need to be provided in a cyclical fashion to mimic natural light/dark cycles.
Cavies are more sensitive to changes in environmental conditions and generally require stricter control. Ideally cavies are raised in a climate controlled environment. In cases where this is not possible, extreme cold and drafty conditions need to be avoided in addition to extreme heat. Ambient temperatures should fall between 60˚ to 85˚ F. Cavies do not do well in extreme heat. Direct sunlight exposure with no shading needs to be avoided. If cavies are raised outdoors, where high temperatures are possible, fans, ice bottles, or other cooling measures need to be utilized when temperatures rise above 85˚F. If appropriately acclimated, cavies can withstand temperatures below 60˚F provided they are protected from drafts and given sufficient bedding. Adequate light/dark cycles need to be provided such as 12 hours light and 12 hours dark, where natural light cycles are not available.
Section 2: Nutrition and Water
Proper nutrition is very important to raising healthy rabbits and cavies. It is recommended that that the primary source of nutrition comes from a commercially produced pelleted food. Consideration as to the breed, age, ideal weight, purpose of animal being raised (pet, show, breeding, meat, fiber, etc.) needs to be considered when choosing the pelleted feed. The milling date is located on the feed bag and feed should not be used if the feed is greater than six months old. Cavies require Vitamin C to prevent scurvy. If adequate amounts are not provided in the feed, it needs to be supplemented in the water or by other means.
Supplements such as hay, oats, sunflower seeds etc. may be given in addition to the pelleted feed. Treats, such as fruits and vegetables, may be given in small amounts as well. Treats and supplements should not be relied upon as a complete diet.
Feed is given in measured amounts to individual animals. The amount given per animal is based upon the breed, age, purpose, and desired weight of the animal. Measured amounts should be consumed in a timely fashion so the entire ration is used up within a few hours. It is recommended that animals be fed one ration once a day. It is not recommended that animals be fed free choice or have food in front of them at all times with the notable exceptions of nursing mothers or young, growing litters.
Clean potable water is essential to raising healthy animals and is to be freely given. Water should be checked daily or more frequently if conditions warrant (i.e. hot weather or extreme cold). If a watering system is utilized, water nozzles should be checked daily to ensure animals are receiving appropriate water flow.
Feeders and water receptacles (including watering systems) need to be periodically cleaned with an appropriate cleaning agent to reduce bacteria, mold, and algae buildup. Feed and water equipment also need to be inspected on a regular basis to make sure that they are free from any condition which would prevent the receptacles from being effective for holding feed and water or are a hazard to the animal or its owner.
Section 3: Breeding and Caring for Young
Rabbits reach sexual maturity between four to six months of age; however it is not necessarily recommended that they enter into a breeding program at this point. Rather it is recommended that animals enter into a breeding program based upon the relative size of a given breed. The ages are as follows: small breeds between 4 to 6 months, medium breeds between 6 to 8 months and large/giant breeds between 10 to 12 months of age.
Breeding needs to occur either in a neutral environment or by taking the doe to the buck’s cage. The gestation of a rabbit is typically 28-32 days. Nest boxes need to be offered to a doe minimally at day 28. The next box needs to be large enough to allow the doe to enter and turn around. Minimum cage sizes for does with litters are addressed in Tables 1-C. Once a doe has kindled she may be rebred as early as when the kits are two weeks old. If this intense system is used, kits are to be weaned at four weeks of age. Careful monitoring of the doe’s condition needs to be monitored for the health and wellbeing of the animal. While this intense breeding is acceptable, a less intensive breeding program is ideal. It is recommended that litters be weaned between 6 and 8 weeks of age for optimum growth. Animals need to be weaned before 10 weeks of age to prevent fighting. While it is recommended that litters be weaned into individual cages for optimum growth, litters may be group housed provided that the minimum cage space requirements per animal as described in Table 1-A and Table 1-B are met. It is recommended that does and bucks be housed in separate cages when group housing animals to prevent accidental breeding. The maximum number of litters that a doe may produce in a year is eight litters. This heavy breeding program is recommended primarily for commercial operations. The maximum amount of litters that the average breeding doe will produce in a year is five litters. Should a doe miss a breeding cycle or lose a litter she can be rebred immediately.
Cavies are able to be bred at a very young age of 2 ½ weeks; however, this is not recommended. Instead, it is recommended that boars enter a breeding program at five to six months old and sows at four months of age. It is recommended that if a sow is to be bred, her first breeding occurs before 7 months of age to prevent her pelvis from fusing making pregnancy dangerous for the sow. Cavies may be harem raised where one boar services up to four sows at once provided minimum space requirements are met as described in Table 1-D. Care needs to be taken to prevent breeding of young before the recommended age.
Section 4: Standard Operating Procedures
It is strongly encouraged that breeders document their specific care practices that they use for their animals in a set of Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs). These SOPs will provide any regulatory official a documented explanation and description as to the care, husbandry and breeding practices utilized for the animals on the premises. Information documented includes how much food is given, how often cages are cleaned, how cages are cleaned, how often sanitization and the method of sanitization used, etc. Documentation of SOPs will also help keep owners accountable to their own minimum care standards.
Posing and Evaluating Different Type RabbitsRandy Hall2019-07-11T23:45:48-04:00
Within the Rabbit and Cavy community the most common area of criticism from both judges and exhibitors alike is inconsistent or improper posing. Too many good animals are culled because they are improperly posed.
Showmanship is a “vet check” on your animal. It’s like the process judges and registrars go through while checking animals. You will be checking your animal for any health issues such as malocclusion, abscesses, and more. So thoroughly check the animal. This process should make be sure your animal is a quality show animal. It also demonstrates your knowledge and handling of the animal.
Dwarf Papillons were developed in Germany under the name Zwergschecken. Translated to English this means Dwarf Check. The idea for Dwarf Papillons was born in Metz, France at the 2015 Europa show. The Europa World Show had Papillons shown from several countries, Switzerland, Italy, Germany, France, Sweden and Austria; all exhibited under the French name, Nain Papillon. Six of these animals were brought back to the US. Stock was later imported from France and Switzerland, and in January of 2015 an Application for a Foreign Breed using the Zwergschecken standard was applied for. Randy Shumaker, Maddie Pratt, along with spokesman Louis Potter became part of the core group. They decided to use a name they felt best represented the breed in the US and settled on Dwarf Papillon. In 2020, the Chocolate Dwarf Papillon became ARBA’s 50th recognized breed.
Easter is a Time for Celebration – Not a Surprise Addition to the Household.
The Easter Bunny will soon be making his rounds and children are already looking forward to the gifts and treats tucked inside their baskets on Easter morning. One gift that often finds its way into that basket is a child’s very own Easter Bunny. Though these adorable little bundles of fluff are the star of the day, that same bunny sitting in a basket on Easter morning will often meet an unfortunate fate after the newness and the holiday wears off.
Rabbits are indeed a wonderful animal to own! Many people are surprised to learn that there are 52 distinct breeds of rabbits! From the lopped-eared Holland, to the velvet-coated Mini Rex; each has their own unique characteristics.
They are a versatile animal that appeal to individuals with varying interests and are among the fastest growing projects for 4H and FFA. Whether as a pet or to begin breeding your own line of pedigreed show animals, rabbits are a 7+ year commitment. They are not “starter” pets, and they are not disposable.
The American Rabbit Breeders Association has been advising new breeders and promoting responsible rabbit ownership for over 100 years.
“I wasn’t aware of ARBA when I got my first rabbit, but one of my friends said I should check them out. I joined their club and they sent a book about rabbit care that had more information than the books I saw at the store. They also have a pretty cool magazine that comes every other month that the whole family loves to read. It has articles about different breeds but my favorite section is called Rabbits 101. It’s for people like me who have never owned a rabbit. I wish I had known about them before I got my rabbit.”
Yes, we love the increased interest in rabbits this time of year, and we genuinely welcome that interest. That is why we want you to consider learning all you can about rabbit ownership before you buy. Make it a family project to select the breed of rabbit that is right for you. Then together contact a responsible breeder to help you find the perfect rabbit for you and your family.
Though there are six types of Argente rabbits, the ARBA recognizes only three: The Champagne, the Creme and the newest accepted Argente breed – the Brun. With their dense, glossy, silky coat with a deep chocolate brown undercolor, the Argente Brun is a handsome and striking animal. Accepted at the 92nd ARBA Convention in Portland, Oregon and successfully presented by Charmaine Wardrop, this breed has joined the ranks of the fabulous frosty rabbits that enjoy a distinct place in the hearts of breeders everywhere.
The American Rabbit Breeders Association recognizes 13 breeds of cavies for the purpose of promoting the ethical breeding, showing and improvement of the cavy for exhibition, pet and research animal. Visit the club website to learn about Cavies.
A brilliant orange-red rabbit from nose to tail describes the Thrianta. In 2005 the Thrianta became the first new breed passed by the ARBA Standards Committee since 1988 under the leadership of Hall of Fame legend Glen Carr. The breed was originally developed in Sweden for the Royal House of Orange-Nassau in the late 1930s and today this “fire of the fancy” enjoys a steady following of dedicated breeders. – Maximum weight 6 lbs.
Almost from the moment Tans were discovered in the late 1800s from a wild colony of rabbits in England, their development and domestication began. The black Tan was the primary color though the blues followed soon after. The original Tans bore little resemblance to the lithe, longer limbed and sleek animals we know today; rather they were a cobby style animal more resembling a Dutch. Today’s Tans are a highly competitive breed with many enthusiastic exhibitors. – Maximum weight 5.5 lbs.
Originally described as “strange little black rabbits” in the 1920s when they popped up in Chinchilla litters, the Silver Marten was the result of breeders introducing black and tan rabbits into Chinchillas to improve the type. The ‘Silver Marten’ is both the name of a breed and a color. The Silver Marten breed came first, and then was used to introduce the color as a variety in a number of other breeds such as the Netherland Dwarf, Mini Rex, and Mini Satin. The American Rabbit Breeders Association established a working standard for Black and Chocolate Silver Marten in 1927, and the Blue and Sable in 1933. – Maximum weight 9.5 lbs.
The Silver Fox breed was developed by Walter B. Garland and was the third breed to be developed in the United States. Originally named the American Heavyweight Silver, the name was changed to Silver Fox in 1929. Though the black and blue color varieties of Silver Fox were originally recognized, the blue variety was later dropped. The Silver Fox is distinguished by the unique standing fur and silver tipped and white hairs shot throughout the coat. These hairs are evenly dispersed giving a sharp, bright look to the fur. – Maximum weight 12 lbs.
Satins first appeared in a litter of Havanas owned by Walter Huey of Pendleton, IN in 1934. After consulting with Harvard University geneticists it was concluded that this was a simple mutation that was unlike anything seen in the rabbit world. From those humble beginnings the Satin Rabbit was born. First called Satin Havanas, these rabbits with the brilliant sheen were later renamed Satins. Today exhibitors can enjoy showing Satins in 11 brilliant colors. The Satins and Mini Satins (affectionately called Team Sheen) are grouped under one specialty club. – Maximum weight 11 lbs.
One of the oldest recorded breed of domestic rabbit the Silver dates back at least to the 1500s. There are legends and stories that tell of Sir Walter Raleigh introducing the breed to England from Portugal. Around 1920 the Silver was introduced onto American soil and was accepted as a breed. It was one of the first breeds to ever be accepted and today, it is accepted in three different varieties: black, brown and fawn. The Silver is distinguished by the silvery luster of the white guard hairs mingled with the colored portion of the coat. – Maximum weight 7 lbs.
Trim and athletic, the Rhinelander is a medium sized arched breed known for its flashy markings of orange and black, or fawn and blue. Developed in Germany in the first decade of the 20th century, Rhinelanders made their way to the United States in 1923 and were recognized as a breed in 1924. Rinelanders are known as a running breed meaning they move about the show table instead of being statically posed. They are considered a rare breed in the US. – Maximum weight 10 lbs.
First shown publicly at the Paris International Rabbit Show in 1924, the Rex breed was recognized internationally as a breed to watch. Imported to the US in 1924 by John Fehr and Alfred Zimmerman. The popularity of the Rex is largely due to the mutation that produces a short, dense velvet-like quality to the fur. Today the Rex remains the number one breed used in fur production due to this unique coat quality. Today the “King of the Rabbits” can be shown in 16 color varieties that showcase that plush and unforgettable fur. – Maximum weight 10.5 lbs.
The origins of the Polish remain somewhat obscure. The breed was mentioned in English literature in 1860 and was believed to have owed their origins to Britain and not Poland as their name suggested. Though diminutive in size, the Polish is not a dwarf breed, having longer ears, a non-brachycephalic head, and less cobbiness of body than the Netherland Dwarf. The Polish are a popular show rabbit and enjoy a loyal following among exhibitors. – Maximum weight 3.5 lbs.
1957 became the year of the Palomino. Named after their color (similar to the Palomino horse), the Palomino comes in two varieties, Golden and Lynx. Palominos are a popular breed with enthusiasts from coast to coast due to their multiple uses for show, pet, meat and fur. – Maximum weight 11 lbs.
With more ARBA Best in Show wins than any other breed, the New Zealand rabbit was a game changer for many breeders. Despite the name, the breed was originally developed in the United States and became recognized in 1916. New Zealands were prized for their quick growth rate and meat production, and while the Reds were initially more popular, the New Zealand White soon took over due to the easy of dyeing a white pelt for the fur market. – Maximum weight 12 lbs.
The enduring appeal of the Netherland Dwarf can be attributed to their diminutive size, variety of showable colors, and brachycephalic head. The Netherland Dwarf breed was first produced in the Netherlands in the early 20th century, and soon made its way to America. Since then their popularity has only grown and new color varieties have been recognized; bringing the total to 25. – Maximum weight 2.5 lbs.
The newest addition to “Team Sheen” arrived courtesy of J. Leo Collins who succeeded in getting the Mini Satins recognized by the ARBA in 2005. Originally called the Satinette, the 47th breed came only in one showable color – white. However, so popular was this breed that other rapidly followed. As of this writing there are 16 showable varieties of Mini Satin; offering something for everyone. – Maximum weight 4-3/4 lbs.
Though a relatively new breed, the Mini Rex is consistently the #1 or #2 top entry at any ARBA Convention. Developed in 1984 in Texas by the late-great Monna Berryhill. The plush coated Mini Rex became a recognized breed in 1988 and have been dominating the show tables ever since. Popular and available in may different colors, the Mini Rex appeals to both new and seasoned breeders. – Maximum weight 4.5 lbs.
Believed to have been developed in the 19th century by crossing the English Lop with the Giant Pappillon, the ever popular French Lop made its appearance in the US in 1971. Though placid and relaxed in temperament, the French Lop is a massive, heavy boned rabbit with a strongly developed, wide and sturdy head. They are a beautiful and majestic breed, and make a stunning presence on the show table.– French Lops have no maximum weight.
Known for having the longest ears of any rabbit breed, the English Lop is also considered the original lopped rabbit. Bred in the early 19th century and prized as pets in the Victorian era, the English Lop was used to develop other lopped breeds such as the French and Mini Lop. This breed’s placid temperament and easy going nature has earned it the nickname “the Dog of the Rabbit World” – No max weight on srs.
Stocky and compact the Mini Lop was brought to the U.S. in the 1970s bearing the name Klein Widderand. After a slow start and a name change, the Mini Lop (presented by Herb Dyck), became an official ARBA breed in 1980. Easily recognized by the softball-sized head and engaging lopped ears, the Mini Lop only gains in popularity each year. – Maximum weight 6.5 lbs.
The most eye-catching feature of the Lionhead rabbit is the distinctive mane around its head giving it the look of a male lion, as the name implies. While the Lionhead has only been a recognized breed in the United States since 2014, it is steadily gaining in popularity throughout the rabbit hobby. In 2018 the Lionhead roared; capturing its first ARBA Convention Best in Show! – Maximum weight 3.75 lbs.
Developed in Great Britain in the early 20th century, the Lilac was imported to the United States in 1922. Population numbers remain low enough that it is currently listed by the Livestock Conservancy as a breed to watch. This engaging breed is known for its distinctive pinkish dove-gray coloring and luxurious fur. The Lilac is a standard breed, meaning it comes in only one color. It is an ideal choice for a beginning rabbit enthusiast due to it’s docile nature, medium size and easy to understand breeding standard. – Maximum weight 8 lbs.
This distinctive breed with the mug head and luxurious wooled coat was developed by Bonnie Seeley and recognized as a breed in 1988. Bonnie’s intent was to produce a small pet rabbit with wool that was easy to care for. Today, the Jersey Wooly has become one of the most popular breeds of rabbit exhibited in the US and abroad. – Maximum weight 3.5 lbs.
Originally developed by Adriann de Cock of the Netherlands with the purpose of creating a dwarfed lop-eared rabbit that was smaller and easier to handle than the larger French Lop. The venture was long and challenging but ultimately, rewarding as the breed was recognized by the ARBA in 1979. Today the Holland Lop is one of the top five most popular breeds in the ARBA. Its compact size paired with the large head and lopped ears makes it a beautiful addition to the rabbit world. – Maximum weight 4 lbs.
Known abroad by various names such as the Russian Rabbit, the Black Nose Rabbit from China, and the Egyptian Smut, the Himalayan is indeed a worldly wonder. A description of the Himalayan rabbit first appeared in an 1857 European publication and that by the end of the 19th century Himalayans were being raised for show in Great Britain. At this time the Himalayan is the only cylindrical typed breed recognized by the ARBA. Their laid back demeanor makes them easy to handle and a joy to exhibit. They are ideal for youth competing in showmanship and challenging enough for seasoned breeders. – Maximum weight 4.5 lbs.
The “Mink of the Fancy” became an ARBA recognized breed in 1916. Known then as the Standard Havana, the breed was prized for the mink-like quality of their fur. Today the Havana is one of the heavy hitters on the show table; frequently taking top honors at shows. They are a compact breed and can be shown in the five recognized colors: Chocolate, Black, Blue Broken and Lilac. – Maximum weight 6.5 lbs.
Originating in France and first exhibited in Paris in 1887, the Harlequin rabbit comes in two types: The Japanese and the Magpie. Japanese Harlequins are orange or fawn and either black, blue, chocolate, or lilac, while Magpie Harlequins are white and either black, blue, chocolate, or lilac. A “perfect” Harlequin will have a marked split of the two colors alternating on the head, ears, feet, and body. The Harlequin presents a worthy challenge to breeders to achieve a perfect 3-part harmony. – Maximum weight 9.5 lbs.
Originally developed to provide a smaller rabbit for laboratory use, the Florida White has become much more than just another white rabbit. Recent years have seen a surge in popularity for the Florida White; frequently winning Best In Show. The Florida White has also achieved the rabbit world’s highest honor; ARBA Convention Best in Show. Accepted as a breed by the ARBA in 1967 by ARBA Judge Orville Miliken, the Florida White is an ideal show rabbit for the competitive breeder. – Maximum weight 6 lbs.
Believed to have originated in Flanders, Belgium, the Flemish Giant was bred as early as the 16th Century. The breed was exported to America in the early 1890s to help improve the size of meat rabbits during the great “rabbit boom”. The docile personality of the Flemish Giant has earned it the nickname “Gentle Giant”, and its varied use as pet, show, breeding, meat, and fur have made it a universal rabbit. – Though there is no maximum weight for the Flemish Giant, they often tip the scales at over 20 lbs.
The English Spot rabbit was developed in England in the 19th century. Through selective breeding they developed the distinctive colored markings on its body, including the butterfly nose marking, eye circles, cheek spots, herringbone, colored ears, and a chain of spots. The English Spots made their appearance in the US in 1890 and were an instant hit. They are a running breed (exhibited by moving about the showtable instead of statically posed), and make an exciting and challenging breed to master. Maximum weight 8 lbs.
The “Eye of the Fancy” was developed in Germany from two different strains that eventually merged to become the breed we know today. The Dwarf Hotot combines the striking markings of the Blanc de Hotot with the charm of a dwarfed breed, making them easy to handle for children and a challenge to breed for the more seasoned expert. Recognized by the ARBA in 1983, the Dwarf Hotot enjoys a steady popularity and a loyal following – Maximum weight 3 lbs.
Perhaps the most recognizable breed, the Dutch rabbit was developed in England during the 1830s. Breeders began selecting rabbits that bore the distinct markings that have become the hallmark of the breed we know today. Selecting for correct markings paired with type can be challenging, but the fact that the Dutch remains one of the top 10 most popular breeds, is evidence that many are up to this task. – Maximum weight 5.5 lbs.
One of the rarest breeds of rabbit, the stunning Crème d’Argent’s creamy-white color with a bright orange undercolor is a true showstopper. This rare breed, (which numbers less than 1,000 in the US) has become extinct in all countries except the US and the United Kingdom. The ARBA, together with the Creme d’Argent Rabbit Federation is working to preserve and promote this magnificent breed. – Maximum weight 11 lbs.
The Cinnamon, named for its russet coat color, became a recognized breed in 1972. Developed by the Houseman Family who saw the potential of this breed. The color of the Cinnamon is a rust or ground cinnamon with a uniform gray ticking across the back, smoky grey coloring on its sides, a dark underbelly, and an orange under-color all over. They are a commercial breed and are also valued for their meat production. – Maximum weight 11 lbs.
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In the 1920s the Standard Chinchilla took the US by storm. Breeders recognized immediately that the breed would be of great value for its fur. Almost overnight the Standard Chinchillas were the next big thing following the Belgian Hares. Thousands of Chinchilla rabbits, including the Standard Chinchillas, were registered with the association during the 1920’s. Today the breed enjoys a more modest, but steady exposure; remaining popular with top breeders and showman alike. – Maximum weight 7.5 lbs.
The Giant Chinchilla was developed in the US in 1921 by Edward H. Stahl. His purpose was to create a breed that produced the prized Chinchilla fur on as large as pelt as possible. In 1928 he achieved his goal and the Giant Chinchilla was officially recognized by the ARBA. The nickname given to the Giant Chinchillas is “The Million Dollar Rabbit” as Edward H. Stahl was the first (and perhaps the only individual) to ever make a million dollars from the sale of rabbit breeding stock. – Maximum weight 16 lbs.
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Upon being shown by a British exhibitor at the New York State Fair in 1919 Chinchilla rabbits were sold to Edward H. Stahl and Jack Harris and the rest is history. The Chinchilla can be credited with the development of more breeds and varieties of rabbit worldwide than any other breed of domestic rabbit. The versatile American Chinchilla is the most rare of all the Chinchilla breeds but is a worthy competitor on the show table. – Maximum weight 12 lbs.
Recognized by the ARBA in 1919, the Checkered Giant is celebrating 100 years as the “rabbit beautiful”. One of the largest rabbit breeds, the Checkered Giant is easily recognized by its distinctive bold markings and arched body type. They are a running breed and require a large cage to move comfortably. – No maximum weight.
Champagne d’Argent means ‘Silver [rabbit] of Champagne’. Though the specific origins are unknown, the breed may have been present in France by the mid 1600s. Prized for their unique “silvery” pelt and meat producing qualities, the Champagne is a frequent winner on the show table. – Maximum weight 12 lbs.
Developed in Southern California in the 1920s by George West, the Californian is one of the most popular breeds of rabbits in the ARBA. Prized for its meat producing qualities as well as its pelt, the “Cal” is a competitive commercial breed in all 50 states and beyond. – Maximum weight 10.5 lbs.
The Britannia Petite, known as the “Polish” in Britain, is one of the smallest breeds of rabbits recognized by the ARBA. Active and energetic, the Petite is more high strung than other breeds. They take perseverance and patience to handle, but are one of the most showy breeds to exhibit. – Maximum weight 2.5 lbs.
Derived from Hotot-en-Auge, near the port of LeHavre in Northern France, came the name and the rabbits known as Blanc de Hotot (White of Hotot). From those humble beginnings at the turn of the 19th Century to their recognition by the ARBA in 1979, this snow white breed with the black eyeliner has enjoyed a steady and loyal following. – Maximum weight 11 lbs.
The Beveren has a rich European history. First developed in Beveren, Belgium during the 19th century and created from crosses of the Brabanconne, St. Nicolas Blue, and the Blue Vienna. Although rare in the United States, the active and energetic Beveren has a devoted following. They are recognized in black, blue and white. – Maximum weight 12 lbs.
One of the oldest breeds of rabbits in America, the Belgian Hare can trace its roots back to the 1880s. They were developed in the early part of the 18th century in Eastern Europe through selected breeding of wild and domestic rabbits. The Belgian Hare has a very distinct, lithe and elegant body and makes a striking presence on the show table. – Maximum weight 9.5 lbs.
The commercial typed Satin Angora became a recognized breed in 1987. The unique silky wool which possesses a distinct sheen is considered some of the most valuable of all wool and is the hallmark of the breed. – Maximum weight 9.5 lbs.
The largest of the four breeds of angora recognized by the ARBA. The Giant was developed specifically as a wool producer. Its wool consists of three fiber types: Underwool, awn fluff and awn hair, and must be shorn as this breed does not moult. – No Max Weight
One of four breeds of Angora recognized by the ARBA. The French has enjoyed a surge in popularity in recent years due to its docile nature and unique wool producing properties. – Maximum weight 10.5 lbs.
One of four breeds of Angora recognized by the ARBA. The English is the only breed of Angora that is classified as a compact breed. It possesses a silky, luxurious wool that is both beautiful and sought after for spinning – Maximum weight 7.5 lbs.
The American Sable is distinguished by its luxurious brown coat that shades from a dark sepia over the top to a lighter shade of sepia over the sides. It has a dark sepia face, ears, feet, and tail. They are often compared to a mink in color. They are an ideal breed for show, meat and fur. – Maximum weight 9 lbs.
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The American Fuzzy Lop became a recognized breed in 1989. Known for its lopped ears, large head, and wooled coat, the AFL is a sweet tempered, rabbit that is energetic and popular for beginning and seasoned exhibitors alike. – Maximum weight 4 lbs.
The American rabbit is considered a rare breed by the American Livestock Breed Conservancy which lists the American as critical. This breed possesses a calm temperament making it an excellent project. They come in two varieties (colors) Blue and White. – Maximum weight 12 lbs.
